Until recently, anti-aging or anti wrinkle creams were unable to cause a real delay in aging and skin rejuvenation processes. But lately, there was a development of new components that were scientifically proven to be effective in anti wrinkle and anti aging. Let’s explains what are those products and how do they work.
Throughout the last decade many cosmetic products declared that they can cause rejuvenation of the skin and delay the aging process, but in practice none of them were able to do so. The only products with proven efficacy were several pharmaceutical products containing retinoic acid (vitamin A acid: Retin-A, Lochside, pro retinole), but they were sold and in pharmacies by prescription only.
Recently there has been a revolution in the anti wrinkle cream / anti-aging field. With the development of a number of innovative active cosmetic ingredients, we have the impression that there is still a solid future in the delaying aging process for the cosmetics industry.
Peptides: Delaying Aging
Effectiveness in delaying aging is determined by conventional measures, such as increased production of Collagen and Elastin fibers in the skin, increase in the production of Hyaluronic acid (which gives young skin its softness and characteristic appearance) and more. Using these parameters we can evaluate the ability of the any product to actively influence the aging process. Also reducing inflammation in the skin is very important for the delay aging process as skin irritation severe inflammation raise the rate of destruction and dissolution of Collagen fibers and slows its renewal.
In recent years, we could see new developments of several cosmetic components which were tested and scientifically proven to have a real impact on delaying skin or as we call it anti-aging. Those products do not require medical prescription. These components, called Peptides, include a number of different materials, which were discovered in laboratory clinical trials and proven to have actual ability to repair age and sun skin damage. In addition it was discovered that they raise the production of Collagen and other components that exist in abundance in the skin young. Some of them clearly identified as Melanin delayers, this action induce skin brightness and unifies it, basically repairing the damage caused by age and pigmentation.
Peptides are very tiny molecules that operate as signals transfers between cells. Peptides order the deep skin tissues (dermis) to regulate the level of activity, similar to the typical young skin. Another skin cells that are affected by using peptide-based formulations are the Fibroblasts. These cells are in the connective tissue of the skin. In addition they have also an effect on the Melanocytes cells, the cells that are responsible for skin tone.
Fibroblasts Activity Decreases From Age 30
Fibroblast cells are responsible for the production of Collagen and Elastin, the fibers in deep skin layers. In addition they are also essential for the production of Hyaluronic acid and their activities is critical for maintaining skin tone, firmness and features of youthful look. Activity of fibroblasts rate decreases significantly with increasing age. In the age of 30 we can identify a clear decline in quality and density of Collagen fibers in the skin.
Research demonstrated that Peptide molecules cause an increase in activity of fibroblast cells. With that it will bring an increase in the contents of Collagen and Elastic fibers in the skin, affecting the tension and re-sharpen facial features. Peptides have been shown to enhance the production of Hyaluronic acid, the substance that is used as protein to give the skin its full look, typical of young looks. Hyaluronic acid is also used for storing water in the deeper skin tissues and acts as natural salt, so that with increase in the production of the acid, the level of moisture in the skin will go up and the and dryness typical of the adult skin will fade.
Just to mention, the slowdown in the production of Hyaluronic acid can be identified already in late age of 20 and this is accelerated after sun exposure, low protein diet and with the increasing of the age.
Melanin Affects Skin Tone
Various Peptides regulate Melanin production, the pigment that gives skin its color and is responsible, among other things, to the appearance of pigmentation spots after sun exposure. Melanin formed in special cells in the skin, called Melanocytes. Using many medications, old age, pregnancy and oral contraceptive causes uncontrolled production of melanin in these cells, and thus violated some shade of skin. Sometimes it is the first sign of skin aging.
We now know that regular and prolonged uses of products based on peptide molecules are capable of considerable clarification of age spots and pigmentation. Peptide molecules also have an important role in inhibiting inflammatory processes, such as those that accompany severe eczema, dermatitis and contact dermatitis. As mentioned before, inflammatory processes contribute to the destruction of the protein structures in the deep dermal layers and thus lead to accelerated aging of the skin.
Retinoic Acid Or Peptide: Which Is Better?
It is common to compare the cumulative effectiveness of peptide-rich cosmetics to the effectiveness of Retinoic acid, which requires a medical prescription and is not free from side effects.
The use of Retinoic acid causes a great sensitivity to sunlight and requires the use of a sunscreen during the day. In addition, Retinoic acid should not be used by pregnant and nursing women. Thus, the use of cosmetic product containing Peptides does not require sun avoidance and not prohibited by pregnant and nursing women. However, even modern cosmetic products containing the peptide molecules provide the full results only after prolonged and consistent use of at least two months. Only such use will help to achieve visible results such as reducing wrinkles, reduction of age spots and a clear increase in skin moisture and its tensions.
It should be mentioned that oldest and popular cosmetics products still do not contain Peptides in their ingredients. Although they might contain premium cosmetic ingredients, such as rare oils or varied herbal extracts, none of these old elements has documented research showing its efficiency of real anti-aging, like Peptides. So, when buying cosmetic care product, which indicates that its inhibit aging, so-called anti-aging, do not hesitate to read the ingredient list that appears on the back of the packaging and try to identify if it specifies at least one Peptide. Most effective Peptides are Matrixyl, Matrixyl 3000, Pentapeptide, Acetyl Tetrapeptide 5 and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4.